Sweater Pockets – Hidden Seam

We have been adding some links to some interesting reads about superwash merino wool and the production of our fabrics.  

All of our Heavyweight fabrics use what is called “feltable” wool or wool that has scales to knit together almost like velcro does to make it thick and great for diapering and warm clothing yet is still temperature regulating.  We have been mostly using these fabrics for years, but recently introduced the Dreamweight and Jersey as lighter weight options in our line up.  These 2 fabrics are superwash.  

Superwash is a process that was introducted in the 1970s as a way to allow wool to be more practical for the mass population.  Some people didn’t want thick sweaters nor had the patience to hand wash things.  The processes uses chlorine to remove the scales that stick together, then the fabric undergoes a softening process.  It is like putting the fiber into a pool and then hair conditioner afterwards.  Both stages require water and chemicals, and can look scary.   This process has gotten some bad press over the years.  There are some new processes being introduced; spoken about in the articles below.  Take a look and decide for yourself what is best for your family.  We do offer a variety of options and intend to introduce more over the up coming months and years most of which will be “feltable” style because that is our main fabric line up. 

I didn’t fully understand what superwash was when I first got some years ago to try out. I do tend to run hot, and had dabbled for short times over the years in using these fabrics.  I have a dress I made myself that I love, it keeps me feeling cool on hot summer days, but still comfortable in air conditioned spaces as well. I had stopped offering these garments more because I was streamlining our offereings and wanted to really work on our heavyweight process and didn’t divide the available capital investments among too many fabrics. 

I had a few people beg me to bring in Jersey and lighteweight fabrics.  I brought in the Jersey and Dreamweight at that time.  I was aware that a small handful of people were concerned about superwash, but also that many had no idea what it was any it confused them with too much information.  I did look around and found that most wool makers didn’t opening announce it, but I was open to discuss if anyone asked me.  I trust the makers of the fabrics and the regulations of Europe and USA that the process couldn’t be that bad anyways.  

When I learned more about some people having concerns about superwash, I did some research and spoke with my knitter again to verify my understanding about this topic.  They have been in the industry for years in the US. They get their yarn from Europe, and offer both Superwash and Feltable wool types.  He said that they have spent hours and thousands of dollars testing our different methods. Their testing resulted in unusable wool fabric that was severly damaged.   They usually do the knitting, and have navigated to allow the spinners to do what they do best and not reinvent the wheel.  The Jersey maker uses charguers in the US which is the only facility to do so in America. 

We have been undergoing a lot of growth with a lot of products and I do apologize for not being more clear when these were introduced.  I have had a couple more people inquiring, so I decided better late than never, regreting not investing the time earlier. There is a lot of anecdotal information out there, but I did try to find some scientific articles discussing the process and some of their findings.  I searched microplastics and superwash and didn’t find anything, but will continue to research.  I do not want to offer a product that I don’t feel confortable with. 

Our superwash is processed by Charguers, an international leader in textile fabrication with an division in USA.  They have aided in further testing of processes as well.  They are using updated technology to reduce the environmental impacts of the superwash process, and continue to work on sustainability as part of their mandate. A lot of this information has some proprietary information, the whole textile industry is a challenge to navigate.  From water and pesticide use in cotton production as well as the dyeing process, bamboo fabric production, availability of knowledge and machinery to produce fabrics in locations with decent labour and environmental laws.  I do feel confident in my current supply chain, the people working with me and our process.  I love using wool because of the reduced environmental impacts of the production, low impact dyeing process, limited water consumption and a sustainability of the fiber itself.  

I truly appreciate the challenge to forge forward and have a positive impact on the people around me but the planet itself.  Taking a small kitchen table business to market is no easy job, and I am grateful for people that support what we do as well as my fellow makers and always look for ways improve our process make sure we are doing things the best way possible.